Great post Dan, as usual. Thanks for bringing this stuff up. A couple of points I would like to add, if I may:
1) Should you determine that an Inaccuracy Report needs to be submitted, please be specific on what needs to be done. When you click on "See any inaccuracies?", you get the opportunity to choose a "category" of inaccuracy. Repeating that information afterwards really doesn't help - i.e., clicking "Duplicate Set" as the category, and then saying "I believe this set is a duplicate" does absolutely no good.
2) Provide evidence if possible. There are two sets of leading words I dread seeing in an IR: "I believe..." or "I think...". If you can provide a link to a reputable source (if it's a blog post, please try and make sure that it includes further links or solid explanations, not just one person's opinion) explaining why you think something, it is much more helpful to resolvers. No, it's not that we don't trust you. It has to do with the fact that we have some very knowledgeable members on this site, and they may know something you don't if you haven't done all of your research. I've been caught a few times myself.
3) Understand how IRs work. There isn't a guide (yet) detailing any of this, but it's also pretty sensible so hopefully this helps. There are certain tools that resolvers have access to depending on what level the IR is submitted at. For example, if the "See any inaccuracies?" link is clicked from the checklist page, resolvers will not have access to the "Remove Images" tools if the reports says "the image for card #65 is incorrect and should be removed." This means that we now have to submit another IR from the specific card page to execute this request. Almost every page has a link to submit an IR; if you think about what you want accomplished with an IR, and then submit the request from the appropriate level, it's helpful to everyone.
4) If there is a question on your IR, resolves can leave a comment on it. This might be done to communicate further information to other resolvers, shed more light on a situation, or to ask a question. When a comment is left on your IR, you will receive a message (well, maybe a notification now) with said comment. Please, reply to the IR - not the message. If you scroll down on that notification, you will find a link to your specific IR. You can also go here and find your IR. If you reply to the message, only the commenter will receive it. If you reply in the IR using the "Add a comment" link, all potential resolvers can see it and utilize the information. If you don't reply at all, it sits there...and sits there...and after a lengthy period of time, it gets closed out with no action because there isn't enough information to warrant a change.
5) A common misconception: there are multiple "Admins". No. There is one Admin. That's his username. This is his site. Please don't try and blame "the Admins" for something you don't agree with. Understand that this is a site for all collectors, and it is set up to try and accomodate as many people as possible - it's impossible to accomodate everyone and their collecting styles. The team that works mostly in the IRs is commonly referred to as a group of "L8s" or "Level 8s". This is because we have obtained the highest permission levels on the site (level 8, obviously), and have the maximum amount of tools that would be available to any member. These tools can be available to everyone. Check out the Permissions here if you want to. Understand that Level 8 members are not Admins. We are just members who enjoy trying to help this site and make it the most correct and resourceful hobby site out there.
6) Mistakes happen. This post, and no responses to IRs or forum posts, are meant to belittle, chastise, or personally attack. There may be exasperation and short replies, mainly because informational posts have been made several times, yet we still end up with new members disregarding stuff like this, or who obviously didn't read the FAQ. However, a willingness to learn and understand goes a long way. Don't take something personal. Approach it with an open mind, ask questions, and get help when needed. No question is dumb, and that's never been more true than on this site. People mention coming back after 20 years, and I can only imagine how much has changed in those 20 years. Lots of information is out there - ask questions, do research, communicate, learn, and you will find an amazing community who wants to help you in every way possible.
Final thing - I respect everyone's opinion, but this pricing issue has been brought up numerous times over the years. The current system in place utilizes actual sold prices. If someone buys a 1991 Donruss common for $0.99 on eBay instead of for $0.18 on SportsLots, that's on them. It's still a legitimate sold price. Admin felt that this system, after lots of discussion and review, was the best way forward. Anyway, the ultimate point is to ask that we please don't turn this into another eight page forum on pricing. It really doesn't need to be debated anymore - I don't think Admin will implement another new system just a few months after this one.
Final final thing - welcome to all of our new members!
I'll never quit collecting entirely, but I am downsizing. Check out my COMC store and help me thin out what I don't want so I can buy cards that I do want. See something you like? Send me a message on here, and we can knock the price down quite a bit. I'll even take a bit of a loss if it means getting you a card you really want.
