Bring me your creased and worn vintage cards and they'll have a loving home to spend the rest of their lives.
To my Canadian (and other international) trade partners: I will be somewhat slower in mailing as I'm having to drive out of the way to get postage due to PayPal dropping international letter postage. Up to two ounces should not be a problem as those can be purchased without much of an issue, but beyond that I cannot get exact postage except at a kiosk and the closest one is on the road less traveled.
Check out my One-and-Done Lists below and if I'm able I'll throw in extra for helping complete those particular sets.
***Unfortunately my NO TRADE LIST is growing due to the lack of civility. When you do not respond to counters or decline without expressing a reason, then it's on the NO TRADE LIST regardless of how much I want what you have. I'm an easy going guy, but this is a hot button issue for me. No apologies for it either.***
*Consider my baseball and hockey vintage traders on a Bell Curve with the majority at Gd/Vg. I'M WORKING TOWARD LOGGING ALL VINTAGE WITH ISSUES, SO IF THEY'RE ALREADY GRADED, THEN THERE'S SOMETHING SIGNIFICANT ENOUGH TO BE IDENTIFIED AS SUCH. Since it's a work in progress, scans will always be provided on questionable ones based on your condition demands.*
My priorities are these and they must be part of an offer for me to consider in trades involving less than 18-cards each way:
- Any vintage (pre-1980) want from any sport
- Any wax box cards
- Any food issues
- Any vintage/modern "parallels" such as Deckle Edge, Scratch-Offs, Booklets, etc.
- Any Collect-a-Books from the various sports
- Any of these modern sets
- 1987 any set except minis (Baseball and Hockey)
- 1999 Upper Deck Ovation (Baseball)
- 2004 Topps Cracker Jack (Baseball)
- New Age Performers series (Baseball)
My valuation method is simple and it is applied consistently 99% of the time, but I can be flexible on either end of a trade:
- Era-for-Era, HOF-for-HOF, common-for-common
- Vintage will rarely ever be valued less than ANY modern card
- I DO NOT USE TCDB PRICING AS A FACTOR - (If you do, that's your prerogative, and I suggest you look elsewhere for a trade)
I communicate as much as needed as my goal is that both parties in a trade are satisfied. I will send scans of any vintage I offer upon request because I do not trust my "grading" skills.
My condition requirements are very flexible on vintage (any pre-1980) card. Here are my "standards":
- Creases, single, multiple, frontal, or otherwise are okay
- Corners rounded, dinged, bent are okay
- Other wear like little nicks on edges, surface scratches, slight fades are okay
- Defacements by marks or paper loss, especially on fronts are NOT okay
- Severely off-centered to where a label is cutoff or another card is visible are NOT okay
I don't expect your condition requirements to match mine.
For the "Right" deal I will work on modern-for-vintage trades going either way and am willing to hash things out, but those are not very often.
Finally, to reiterate, if cards you're offering are not mentioned in the list above, then I need for a deal to be at least 18-cards going each way.
Due to retirement I'm on a limited income and keep a strict budget so I trade mainly using PWEs and if a larger trade can be done cheaper using multiple PWEs, then I'll go that route.
All in all I believe I'm a fair, honest, and flexible trader and am willing to work things out. I am never offended by a counter offer and hope that neither are you.
Brandon Lied about Son
Women's Sports Threatened
Difference between MLK and BLM
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MLB and Manfred's Bias
