| Member Since: |
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10/31/2021 |
| Last Login: |
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10/26/2023 |
| Points: |
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123 |
| Location: |
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Maryland
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| Collection: |
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114,649 cards |
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Collects: |
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*** 10-14-23 TRADING IS OFF *** I'm taking a break from trading to add a ton of cards to my For-Trade list. Getting close! Be back soon. I'M COLLECTING - Baltimore Orioles, Washington Capitals, and Baltimore Ravens.
- Topps Baseball Sets: Focused on completing sets 1954-1968, 1977, 1982, and 1997-2023.
TRADING Overview - I love to trade, but if I have more than 10 trade transactions going at once, I will momentarily turn off my incoming trade proposals to let the trade queue clear out before turning it back on. I don't have the time between family and work to fulfill that many trades at once, especially large trades, and also enjoy this hobby. I thank you for your patience and understanding.
- I have 32,600+ cards listed to trade (I don't list multiples). As a Topps set collector, fair bulk trades are welcome.
- I prefer to trade with fellow team collectors and/or set builders to help out their sets. Common for common cards. As a team collector and set builder, there are way too many common cards on my want list making it difficult to line up a one-for-one trade for inserts, hall of famers, etc... in exchange for commons. Nothing against hall of famer, insert, or investment traders, but our interests don't line up easily to make fair one-for-one card trades.
- I look at the red/green numbers as a contributor to "value". High red/low green numbers mean the card is in high demand. Low red/high green numbers mean the card can easily be obtained by traders on here. There are many cards on my for-trade list where I'm the only active trader offering them (cards typically asked for are the Fleer stickers, Drakes cards, and other inserts). Take the red/green numbers into account when proposing your trade. I could really care less what the price on here says or that those high red/low green numbered cards were abundant during the 80s. If they are hard to get on here, that means something.
- I'd like to stay within the same decade for vintage trades, 50s for 50s, 60s for 60s, and 70s for 70s. For 80s and later cards, it's not as important. For example, I'd like to trade away my 1970s cards to complete my 1977 Topps set.
- Let's communicate to make sure both parties have all of our cards available and in acceptable condition BEFORE either of us commits and hits the "Accept" button.
Grading, Condition, and Variations - All pre-1970s cards in my for-trade list have a grade assigned regardless of condition. Post-1970s cards will have a grade assigned only if there is something drastically wrong with the card (way off-center, fuzzy corners, crease, wax stain, spots, etc...). I'll report all flaws after pulling cards and before accepting an incoming proposal from you. I'm open to sharing photos of cards if requested. Photos are preferred for vintage trades. I grade based on the PSA standards located here: https://www.psacard.com/resources/gradingstandards.
- For 50s-60s vintage cards coming my way, I'm OK with cards having slight wear. However, I'm not interested in cards with tears, heavy scuffs with surface damage, writing, heavy creases breaking the surface, severely rounded corners, holes, wax stains, or part(s) of the card missing. Everything later than 1980, I'd expect to be near mint or mint condition. Again, I'm open to exchanging images of cards to verify condition, especially for vintage cards.
- I make every effort to select the correct card variations within the database. If you are a variation collector, please ask and I will double-check that the variations are correct for you. I wear reading glasses and can make mistakes on those "dot-no-dot" cards. For me, the only sets that I'm concerned about receiving the correct variations for are the 1981 Fleer and the 1991 Topps sets that I'm trying to complete master sets of.
Trade Sizes and Shipping - To make a trade worth the postage, I'd like to stick to trades of more than 15 cards going each way unless the cards involved are higher than common in value or vintage cards.
- 24 Cards or Less: Plain White Envelope (PWE), unless you prefer otherwise.
- 25 to 48 Cards: Two PWEs (because getting TWO envelopes full of cards in the mailbox is better than one!).
- 48+ Cards: Team bags in a plastic bubble mailer, or a 200ct to 500ct card box. All larger trades will come with a USPS tracking number shared with you in a transaction message.
- Work pending, I try to mail out as soon as possible. When work is crushing my soul, I will let you know mailing is delayed. Apologies in advance.
- U.S. trades only, with the exception of PWEs to Canada. Shipping large trades outside of the U.S. is too expensive.
Thank you for reading my profile and stopping by! HAPPY COLLECTING! |
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| Quote: |
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I am not an adventurer by choice, but by fate. - Vincent Van Gogh |
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