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sandyrusty
Posts: 4,696
Joined: Dec 2014
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Wednesday, December 24, 2014 5:13 AM | |
I collect sets and
players. For the
sets, anything
older than 1980, I
put them in plastic
pages so I can look
at them more
easily. All the
other sets are in
boxes suited to fit
the set. For
players, cards
older than 1988 and
special cards from
later years go in
hard plastic. HOF
player cards newer
than 1987 go in
binders. All
others are in boxes
till I get enough
plastic sheets to
put them all in.
They are ordered by
year / set similar
to this site.
As for the
differing number of
cards from one
reference to the
other, most of the
more available
cards are listed.
It is only the very
rare, limited
quantity cards that
are not listed. I
have been entering
my collection and
not that many have
been missing.
But whichever way
you choose to
collect and sort,
make it so you can
enjoy the cards you
like the most.
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Bruno -------- Check my Profile page to see my 2023 Goals and my Lists of sets near completion (5 cards or less) or sets getting close (less than 100 cards missing and 75% complete). https://www.tcdb.com/Forum.cfm/Page/B/ID/0/?MODE=VIEW&ThreadID=25745&C=0
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BOBSCARDZ
Posts: 4,973
Joined: Nov 2014
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Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:04 AM | |
I'm probably the
last guy to chime
in on this topic.
Maybe some ideas
will be helpful, as
I have changed
strategies many
times:
1st- I've reduced
collecting to
baseball and
football with a few
favorite "others"
included. Most
hockey, basketball,
non-sports and the
like are on or will
be on my trade/sell
list. MOST sets are
boxed with
favorite/valuable
cards in
toploaders. Many
many
favorite/valuable
cards are either
kept in a binder or
toploaders+. MY
SUBSETS/SMALL BOXED
SETS are displayed
on a rack. FOOD
ISSUES, MISC
ISSUES, REPRINTS
are in separate
boxes for display
and ease of
handling. ALL
Publications,
memorabilia,
figures are
displayed around
the mainroom. ALL
multiples are kept
in @300+ large
count boxes and
identified by
year/maker.
MY CHERISHED
ERRORS/VARIATION
collection is
displayed in
binders with the
corrected card,
easy to access,
visitors find this
collection
fascinating. MY
VERY SPECIAL
STICKER COLLECTION
is housed in
plastic count boxes
also easy to access
for show. Although
some cards are kept
in a section of my
upstairs office,
they are "ticketed"
for eBay or
Sportslots. MOST of
my collection is on
display in 2 dark
[when the lights
aren't on], cool,
humidity
controlled, smoke-
free basement
rooms. But now that
I found the DB,
organizing has
taken on a new
perspective and
this may lead to a
few more changes.
Hope this helps??
~BOB~
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switzr1
Posts: 6,332
Joined: Dec 2013
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Wednesday, December 24, 2014 11:44 AM | |
I sort my collection by player if I have nine cards of a guy. Those cards go into a binder. Preferably nine different cards on a sheet, but not always. Then I have sheets for mixed St. Louis Cardinals and for mixed baseball HOFers that don't have a full nine yet. They get combined until they have enough to fill another sheet of their own. Then other cards that I like, separated only by sport in the binder. These are cards I want to look at regularly, because I look through each of my binders at least once a month. Anything not in a binder is only separated by sport in boxes until I get a full nine of a player. And if I need to know if I have nine cards of a guy yet, the database tells me. By doing this, I have no wasted space in my binders. Every sheet is full. Women using our card sheets for their coupons has tripled the price of nine pocket sheets, so I don't want to waste them. Ideally I would like all of my cards in binders, but that just isn't realistic at this point in time.
This could all change tomorrow. I've never stuck with a routine for too long where sorting cards is concerned.
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I'm going to reevaluate how I collect after the new year. It's just getting way too expensive for the new stuff. Sometimes I just want to buy a pack, not a whole box or even blaster.
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Redsfan
Posts: 373
Joined: Oct 2011
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Wednesday, December 24, 2014 11:46 AM | |
I collect only Cincinnati Reds cards. All are stored in 5000 ct boxes and sorted by brand then year. They are grouped as follows.
Major league sets - older ones in top loaders and the rest in sleeves.
Game-used and autographed cards. - Autographed sub-divided into certified and non-certified
Misc - Includes small sets, food-issued and other misc sets.
Minor league sets - includes sets like Best, Excel and team issued sets
Easy to index, find and add needed cards.
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avsbruins65
Posts: 2,156
Joined: Sep 2008
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Saturday, July 18, 2015 8:16 PM | |
Awesome suggestions
Dixxy wrote: As we go along and more members discover unidentified sets and oddball stuff, those numbers will grow. For me, pages work great, but I organize by set and year. Every set is separate, they don't mix on a page, so organizing is quite simple, EVEN IF I add another set inbetween. SO, usung the Ray Bourque example, if you are to go by the site for organization by name, It goes by set and by year as well. that means that those 4031 cards all have to move if one Bourque card gets added inbetween the 2768th and 2769th card. heaven forbid you get a card that gets #1 spot! *shudders*
I suggest the box idea if you are going to organize that way. It cuts your Organizing time down immensely! less time wasted moving 1262 cards to include the 4032 card...
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Trying to acquire one card for every for every set, insert, parralle, minor, euro, team issue, oddball etc sets produced for Hockey. Been an interesting project.
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ranfordfan
Posts: 4,975
Joined: Jun 2014
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Saturday, July 18, 2015 11:58 PM | |
Since this is the only site I have ever found that I like I based my PC on this site's system. I collect only Ranford cards so mine is very easy to deal with. I have him by year and then make and then numerically as per his card list. Yes I had to move a few cards from time to time for mystery sets and the odd oddball card but Billy only has about 800 cards or so so it is never more than a few one way or another. Mine are kept in binders and for evey card I do not have I have an inserted paper in its spot with all important info needed to identify the card. Once I get the card the paper gets the boot. I have got my PC up to date to the 2006-07 season as you might know avs as we have been spending quite a bit of time fixing sets from that year ..... lol. One mod I am going to make is to change all the SN1 or 1 of 1 cards to a colored paper for easier reference. To date I have zero of this type of card and most likely will never get any. The price is simply unrealistic. I did scoop a card show 1 of 1 the other day from an online shop but it is just a foil stamped card from a set from days gone by, not a true 1 of 1 as it only cost $10 bucks.
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mrbenaka
Posts: 69
Joined: Feb 2014
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Monday, November 9, 2015 10:36 PM | |
I collect Royals and keep them in binders. My question is whether the binders should be stored laying down or standing up. Advice?
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vrooomed
Posts: 15,005
Joined: Dec 2012
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Tuesday, November 10, 2015 6:49 AM | |
Whichever way allows the cards to remain flat. If the binder is full (as in, it's a 2-inch binder with 1 3/4" to 2" of pages), and it will be surrounded by like binders, upright on a bookshelf will be fine. However, if you have a 3-inch binder with 20 pages in it, storing that on a shelf standing up will allow the pages to sag, and potentially bend the cards. I have literally 100s of binders, and I have them in both orientations.
mrbenaka wrote: I collect Royals and keep them in binders. My question is whether the binders should be stored laying down or standing up. Advice?
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-- Dan -- Note: Please see my profile for more info regarding trading (section updated 3/4/2024). I have added a large portion of my inventory to the site, and currently have trading turned on (details are in my profile).
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RoundtheDiamond87
Posts: 808
Joined: Oct 2015
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Tuesday, November 10, 2015 11:48 AM | |
Good Question. My collection has gone through many evolutions.
I collect complete set of Topps baseball cards. I store them in $0.99 binders from Wal-Mart and 3-4 Ultra-Pro Platinum pages. A complete set tends to fill from 1-3 one-inch binders. I store all of my binders in copy paper boxes that I've taped up for added durability. I use the copy paper boxes like book shelves or drawers that I can pull out and find what I need. With a personal collection of about 50,000 cards, I've managed to fill only 11 boxes.
I do integrate the sets in my personal collection. For example, my 1990 Topps set consists of Topps (792 ct.), Topps Traded (132 ct.), and Topps Debut (152 ct.) cards intermixed and arranged by team in order from World Series winner down to the team with the lowest regular season winning percentage. The teams are organized with team cards in front and then from oldest to youngest player/manager. All subset cards that don't belong as part of the team sets are placed in the back of my binders in some made up order ending with the checklists. My insert sets then follow the subsets, which for 1990 Topps include: Wax Box cards (16 ct.), Glossy Send-ins (60 ct.), Glossy Rookies (32 ct.), and Glossy All-Stars (22 ct.).
As far as sell/trade items are concerned, I store those numerically by set in 100/200/400/800-count boxes as appropriate.
Edited on: Nov 10, 2015 - 2:29PM
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mrbenaka
Posts: 69
Joined: Feb 2014
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Wednesday, November 11, 2015 11:49 AM | |
I have my Royals organized by year and use the database here for my guide to a complete set. I put them in binders, leaving spaces between cards for cards I don't have yet. Do the pages need to be full of cards to be considered full and not a risk for being damaged or is it ok to have gaps and still store upright? Currently I store them flat because I don't want to damage the cards but the number of binders is starting to take up a lot of space and would be easier to store upright. Also, is there a guide to how many pages it takes to fill a 3" binder?
Thanks for the help, guys!
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