Zughiaq

I trade cards to build baseball, hockey and some miscellaneous sports / non-sport sets. I also PC Felipe Alou, Derek Aucoin, Steve Begin, Jennifer Botterill, Kevin Dineen, Laurent Duvernay-Tardif, Bob Kudelski, Manon Rheaume, Gabriela Sabatini and P.J. Stock as well. I do not buy cards. I also have a sweet spot for oddball / food issue / regional sets. New cards are regularly added to my FT/S list and all the cards I list here are NRMT or EX unless specified and I expect the same of you.

I don't collect micro-variations (dots, stars, copyright marks, holograms, printing plate codes...), they're not fun to search and I dislike the incessant frequency with which new ones are added. Seriously, what's the point if you gotta need to use a magnifier glass to check out if there's a dot on the back of a 1991 Fleer? However, I do all my best to check all my cards and to keep my lists up to date, but please ask me first, if micro-variations matter to you. The site really needs some way of opting out of micro-variations (just a default / any var. / unverified option for each card).

Besides helping to complete our collections one step closer each time, the opportunity would be nice to have traded with all the states, provinces and territories of North America. On this site only, I traded with members in 46 states, D.C., 9 provinces, N.W.T. and overseas. I can't wait to have a trade in Alaska, Delaware, North Dakota, Wyoming, Manitoba, Nunavut and Yukon. However, if you don't live in the above jurisdictions, you're still more than welcome to trade with me. No trade to Russia, Belarus and Iran.

I'm an easy going, helpful and patient guy, but here's now my turn to announce that my NO TRADE LIST is growing due to an increased lack of civility on the forums and the full site. If (1) you nitpick and/or always have an opinion on anything and/or act like you own the site and you're not Admin or (2) you do not respond to counters or decline without expressing a reason or don't PM me to ask more time after several days of wait or (3) you send me ridiculous off-balanced offers or (4) you accept the trade and you can't mail your cards in a timely manner or you send me loose or severly damaged cards or (5) have a brand new (empty) account without info / feedback and ask for valuable cards or (6) you clearly didn't read my profile (ask first, at least) and ask me to buy your cards, then chances are that you just won a place on my NO TRADE LIST regardless of how much I may want what you have.

I am fine with shipping cards in single or multiple PWEs, if the cards are properly packaged. Also, I don't mind large or small transactions, but I currently prefer trades with 10 to 20 cards going each way or at least that the cards carry more value than the postage. I am working 12 hour shifts, but I always try to ship the same or the next business day. Just remember that Canada Post doesn't pick up or deliver on Saturday and Sunday.

International shipping is very easy, but it costs more for BOTH traders (not just from the U.S.). Here are some tips to save on shipping costs to Canada: use PWEs (Plain White Envelopes) and avoid bubble envelopes, plastic boxes and big stacks of cards. Ship as flat as you can (cut 9 pocket pages in 3 rows and insert 4-5 cards in each pocket). The more it looks like a greeting card or documents mailed in a regular letter instead of a package, the more it tends to be cheaper to ship. Current U.S. to Canada first class postage rate (up to 2 oz) is $1.40 and if non-machinable, $1.79. If you don't have Global Forever stamps handy, three regular Forever stamps work as well. There's also no need to pay $14.85 for shipping with international tracking, because it is just too expensive, it will be way slower to arrive and Canada Post won't track your postal item anyway. Overall, postal service tends to be slower in Canada and at times a bit harder to predict, but it is as reliable as in the U. S.. Lastly, no cross-border shipping by Fedex or UPS: they charge $40.00+ custom brokerage on each and every package they handle no matter if it is duty free or not.

A.S.

 2021 Bowman Platinum    BASE SET 93/100   MASTER SET 93/105  2021 Bowman Platinum - Top Prospects 48/105  2021 Bowman 54/100 

 Sell mostly  fair $$$$ make offer      PC      Colson Montgomery,ALL RC,JUST STARTING NASCAR,                                                      

Hello: I joined this site in March 2021. 

The trades that I have done have gone very smoothly. Shipping has usually been PWE (Plain White Envelope). I have made trades where the value of cards is less than the postage. Sometimes a person (trader) just needs that last card to complete a set, so I've learned to make trades were the Post Office gets the better end of the deal. 

I still have cards that I need to upload onto this website. (2003 to 2019) hoping to get those cards loaded into the data base soon. 

I'm a set builder:

If you are a buyer check out my "For Sale Only Cards". All the cards in this collection are for sale. I'm still organizing my cards to put in this collection.

The following complete sets are for sale:

1987 Topps 

1987 Topps - Glossy All-Star

1988 Donruss - Stan Musial Puzzle

1989 Donruss - Warren Spahn Puzzle

1991 Ultra (Fleer)

1991 Ultra Team (Ultra Gold)

1991 Upper Deck - Baseball Heroes: Nolan Ryan

1991 Upper Deck - Team Logo Holograms

1992 Donruss - Rod Carew Puzzle

2007 Topps -All Stars

Down the road I'm looking to sell all my cards. At my age (70) it's about the that time to sell all my cards. Hopefully there are people on this site that buys cards.

Have a great day. 

Baseball, Hockey, Football, Basketball, Cal Ripken Jr. & Odd Stuff...

COLLECTING

• Sets: 1954-1968, 1977, 1997-2023 Topps Baseball sets, including updates. Here is my Topps Set Completion Status List
• Teams: Baltimore Orioles, Washington Capitals, Baltimore Ravens, and a few Baltimore Colts.
• Players: Cal Ripken Jr., Jim Palmer, Alexander Ovechkin, Dale Hunter, Chris Simon, and Olaf Kolzig.

TRADING

Overview

• Trades only. I don't buy or sell cards on the TCDB.
• U.S. TRADES ONLY. Shipping outside of the U.S. is expensive.
• I have 50,600+ different cards listed for trade (I don't list multiples). Fair, base-for-base, trades are welcome, especially in bulk. As a set collector, there are a lot of base cards on my want list. Having a large number of base cards on my want list makes it difficult to line up one-for-one trades for requested inserts, stickers, or non-base cards, especially in bulk. If you're asking for inserts or non-base cards, please offer cards that are similar.
• Let's communicate to make sure both parties have all cards available and in acceptable condition BEFORE either of us commits to hitting the "Accept" button. It's a mess trying to fix errors for damaged or missing cards after accepting.
• I'd like to stay within the same decade for vintage trades: 50s for 50s, 60s for 60s, and 70s for 70s. For 80s and later cards, it's not as important. Also, I'm OK with trading across sports or for non-sport if you are.
• I love to trade, but if I have more than 10 transactions going at once, I will momentarily turn off my incoming trade proposals to let the queue clear before turning it back on. I thank you for your patience and understanding.
• If you are a team or player collector and we have a large trade going, please take into consideration that it will take me a longer amount of time to pull your cards spread out over many different boxes and locations, especially if variations are involved, as opposed to pulling cards all from the same set located in one box.

Condition and Variations

• For trades involving pre-1980s cards, expect to exchange images of cards to verify condition. Everyone's standard varies on what is acceptable condition. Exchanging photos solves this so both of us can determine if the condition of the cards being exchanged is preferred by both parties.
• For 50s-70s vintage cards coming my way, I'd prefer cards without tears, heavy scuffs, surface damage, writing, heavy creases breaking the surface, severely rounded corners, holes, wax stains, or part(s) of the card missing. Everything later than 1980 I'd expect to be near-mint or mint condition. Again, I'm open to exchanging images of cards to verify condition, especially for vintage cards.
• If offering cards with dark borders such as 2001, 2002, 2003, or 2007 Topps cards, please ensure that they do not have surface damage from bricking (snow) or edge chipping. Thank you. 
• I make every effort to enter the correct variations. If you are a variation collector, please ask and I will verify that the variations are correct. For me, the only sets that I'm concerned about receiving the correct variations for are the 1981 Fleer, 1991 Topps, and 2012 Topps sets that I'm trying to complete master sets of.

Trade Sizes and Shipping

• The bigger, the better! I'm trying to complete sets while helping you to complete yours, so large fair trades are welcome! My biggest single trade so far has been 3,509 cards: 2024 TCDB Site Award: Largest Trade. We can top that, right?
• I use the Trade Matching feature often to propose large trades. If you're on the top of my match list, don't be surprised if you get a large trade offer from me. I'm trying knock out sets while helping you with yours.
• For Plain White Envelope (PWE), I prefer to trade 15 or more cards to make it worth the postage unless the cards involved are of higher value or vintage cards.
• 15 to 24 Cards: PWE, unless you prefer otherwise.
• 25 to 48 Cards: Two PWEs (because getting TWO envelopes full of cards in the mailbox is better than getting only one!).
• 49+ Cards: Team bags in a plastic bubble mailer, or a 200ct to 500ct card box. All larger trades will have a USPS tracking number sent to you in a transaction message.
• I try to mail out as soon as possible. When work is crushing my soul, I will let you know my mailing is delayed. Apologies in advance.

Thank you for reading my profile and stopping by!

SET BUILDERS, UNITE! HAPPY COLLECTING!