1994 Score Baseball Forum

I ripped a series two box awhile ago and just got around to sorting them.  I remember during the rip that most of the packs had bricked together and even with my best peeling techniques I have a lot of UV coating transfer.  Is this so commonplace that to be almost expected or are these cards not worth saving except as filler?  I thought 93 Upper Deck was bad for bricking but this set seems to worse, are there any other sets to steer clear of if I don't want to deal with this phenomenon?

As for the set itself, I like the front design very crisp in my opinion.  The back of the cards are a mess, too much going on and the use of three different sized fonts just shows that they didn't think it through.  

Regards,

Mark

The number of sets that fall into this is too long to list here. For me, I've found that most flagship sets from the mid-90s to early 00's fall into this boat. The UV coating used during this timeframe is well-known to cause bricking, especially if stored wrong. Coming back into the hobby I bought a bunch of factory sets and it ranged from 1-2 cards damaged after carfeul peeling to an entire set being destroyed (01 Topps). I bought a series 1 and a series 2 94 Leaf wax box and got mixed results, Series 1 was mostly savagable, but series 2 was a mostly a loss.

This makes me appreciate my boxes of 88 Topps just a little better. LOL! - Mark

That's the main issue with a lot of older wax. Newer cards also have the same issue because of the gloss or coating. I've had that happen and entire boxes were ruined. You have no idea how they were stored, so you don't really know what you're in for.

I got several hundred of the '94 score baseball in a collection I bought and the entire lot was a brick . When I tried to peel them apart you could see the coating loss . I really don't know what to do with them either . I kinda want to toss them but part of me just won't . But , I won't add them into my collection either , I don't like damaged cards post 1980 . 

I was just thinking this made me feel better about the gum stuck to the cards on the 81 Fleer I just ripped. At least that was only 1 card per pack. 

Never peel Never! What you should be doing is pick up that brick of cards and slowly twist and flex them. This will break them free and you will save more then you would if you peel them. When you peel you're putting presser on each card and they are made of paper. So when you peel you're putting presser in each card and when you hit that weak spot in the paper it will snap and break free. sticking to the other card. When you flex and twist you hold all the cards as they should be and just applying presser on the sticky places. Also the bigger the brick the better. so if you have a group of small stacks stuck "anything under 1/2 an inch" do them all as one.

2. don't fill the box leave room. I use my thumb. if you can stick your thumb in the end of the box you will not be applying presser to the cards and forcing them to stick. I also get them small silica packs and place one in every box. there more useful than you think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwY2Y48M-0U

That's why I only buy rack or cello packs. I've had instances where the gum damaged every card in the pack by making a groove in all of them. Very few cards where the gum didn't "soak" through.

By peel, what you state is what I refer too. I've saved some cards that way, but still have lost a whole lot of cards. One of the issues that still happens doing the below method is that while it still lossens the cards some of the coating and/or paper can still stick. Damage still remains. I've used the freezer method also, but that didn't work one bit.

I recently opened a few packs and was quick to realize how bricked these cards are, they are completely destroyed as the UV coating sticks to the card they were stuck to and because of this i will avoid them in the future.