Solution:
We should follow a Beckett-type approach
Prices logged are for specific conditions. Cards after 1990 should never be logged for anything other than mint condition. There's no excuse for a card newer than that to be anything but mint.
Cards for certain year ranges should be expected to be for certain conditions. As an example, 1957 should always be for EX-NM. This should be the "normal" price. A mint 1957 card would be worth a percentage higher than the EX-NM one (as an example, it's 150% the EX-NM price. Poor cards are 10%, Fair is 15% and Good 20%. VG would be around 40%. So if someone reports a 1957 sale of a VG card, that's 40% of the "value". If that card sold for $40, then we should extrapolate that to be a $100 EX-NM card and the $150 Mint card (continuing my example percentages).
Is this system perfect - NO.
Is this system closer to reality than what's currently in place - YES.
I'd love this site's pricing to work and for members to be happy with it. Like I've said all along, no price guide pricing reporting tool is flawless. Heck, even the old adage of check ebay for prices is flawed. Brand new cards - the first one always sells higher. This has been true for the past 21 years I've been on ebay. Then as more and more pop on, the prices drop. If those first 5 prices are reported (and are the only ones used), you'd think the card is worth about 5 to 10 times what it truly sells at.
This plan I propose would probably require a re-write of the code that handles the pricing now. It would also rely on the members to have an accurate grading standard. This was already discussed too - my poor is your mint, and vice versa. And we can't say "Use the seller's description" because I've seen several who won't list a grade, will under grade, and will over grade. I think any member that wishes to enter prices should have to take a little quiz to ensure they understand what the site is calling NM, VG, G, etc. That way, even if we (TCDB) have missed the mark on what is what, at least we're all being consistent in our reporting.
Additionally, we need to determine what the true price is on a $1 + $3 (S&H) card versus the $4 (free S&H) card. I don't believe that you can call the one $1 and the other $4. This should be solidified as well. I have ideas about that as well.
(Edits are to fix typos)
-- Dan --
Note: Please see my profile for more info regarding trading (section updated 3/4/2024). I have added a large portion of my inventory to the site, and currently have trading turned on (details are in my profile).