Posted By | Message |
set_builder39
Posts: 339
Joined: May 2019
|
Tuesday, July 14, 2020 7:04 PM | |
Hello,
I have an interest in buyng a few tobacco cards as well as saving up for a Joe Namath rookie. I don't buy graded cards as I typically don't think they are worth it but I do wonder if there's a certain point where it is safer.
My concerns are buying a fake or altered (trimmed or cleaned) card raw and being stuck with the purchase.
Since in all likelihodd these would have to be bought online, I won't have an option for viewing live.
Would like some advice on how others would pursue this path.
-------------------------------
---------- Currently not trading but will consider buy/sell offers.
|
|
|
|
Sshillinger
Posts: 100
Joined: Mar 2018
|
Tuesday, July 14, 2020 7:21 PM | |
I'm not an expert but I would only buy PSA or BCG. Both are reputable for authentic and not altered. Also, you can verify the serial number on the grading site. Make sure the case enclosing the card is clean, no scratches or pressure marks. Most cases are designed to show marks when tampering has occurred.
-------------------------------
If anyone wants to send me cards from my wantlist or teams I like, I am happy to accept :)
|
|
|
|
jimetal7212
Posts: 4,849
Joined: Dec 2016
|
|
|
|
Billy Kingsley
Posts: 7,512
Joined: Aug 2011
|
Tuesday, July 14, 2020 7:34 PM | |
Learn the sets...if you know what the cards should look and feel like you're most likely not going to "taken" by a fake scam. Grading doesn't really tell you anything other than the previous owner paid someone to think for him.
MANY graded cards have been trimmed to try and achieve a higher grade. So many the FBI even got involved in the investigation. They spend on average, I believe, 4 seconds looking at a card for grading.
If you know what you are doing you will likely know more than the grader did when they graded it.
Experience and the knowledge that comes from it, that can only be gained from it, is far more important than any fancy holder.
-------------------------------
VERY slow trading due to health problems. Not transferrable so safe to trade with, just moving is painful and can't always access the cards. Cardboard History My COMC New Collection Website: Cardboard History Gallery (Still under construction) Tips on how to make your scans look like the card does in hand (No more washed out, fuzzy scans!):
|
|
|
|
Slug03
Posts: 251
Joined: Sep 2016
|
Tuesday, July 14, 2020 7:46 PM | |
I typically also prefer ungraded cards for cards Im trying to keep in my own personal collection. And Billy is correct in that if you know what you're doing, you should be able to spot the fakes. However, online buying is a whole other ballgame.
If you're trying to buy a rare, valuable card online that you can't find elsewhere, I would definitely, 100% go graded. Since you cant see the card in person, essentially it boils down to who's opinion you trust more. The seller's, or a mostly unbiased 3rd party? (who yes, are human and make mistakes) For me, I will trust a 3rd party over the seller any day of the week. Even if you're dealing with an honest seller, they are going to be biased in how they grade their own cards, maybe calling a NM card Mint to sell it for a higher price -- and there's nothing you can do about it because grades are subjective. (unless the card is very obviously not in the condition described) In person, you could point this out and work the price down -- you don't have that luxury online.
So, long story short, go graded (PSA, BCG, AND SGC are all good options), your odds of obtaining the card you actually desire, while not 100%, are much higher than buying an ungraded card.
-------------------------------
#COMMONCARDSMATTER "The 0-2 pitch... SWING AND A MISS! Struck him out! The Philadelphia Phillies are 2008 World Champions of baseball!" - RIP Harry Kalas
|
|
|
|
The Card Closet
Posts: 494
Joined: May 2017
|
Tuesday, July 14, 2020 10:50 PM | |
I also collect pre - war cards and have dealt with the same question. My general rule is to buy graded when it is a highly counterfeited card or set. Google how to spot fakes of t206 or whatever and you will gain a lot of knowledge that might make you more comfortable. But in reality, when shopping for tobacco cards, you don't have a lot to choose from, so I'll buy graded often simply because that's all there is.
Also, SGC is the strongest grader for tobacco cards in my opinion. Really old vintage is more their specialty. Plus, the "tuxedo slabs" they use look really good with tobacco cards in them.
|
|
|
|
ericidol1984
Posts: 111
Joined: May 2020
|
Wednesday, July 15, 2020 5:02 AM | |
If I purchased a 84' Dan Marino I would choose a graded card just to be sure its authentic. One day I will . That card has been on my bucket list for years. Yes for those type of cards . Not for a 1988 Topps Dave Stieb. Good day
-------------------------------
Eric (ericidol1984)... Corinthians 9:24 . I focus on PC collectios and interesting cards.
|
|
|
|
set_builder39
Posts: 339
Joined: May 2019
|
Wednesday, July 15, 2020 8:24 AM | |
Haha! Agree on the Dave Steib! Seems like your Marino approach is similar to my Namath approach. I'm thinking of selling some coins and seeing how close I can get to it. I figure with his age there may be a death price spike soon.
-------------------------------
---------- Currently not trading but will consider buy/sell offers.
|
|
|
|
set_builder39
Posts: 339
Joined: May 2019
|
Wednesday, July 15, 2020 8:27 AM | |
Thanks for the tips. Yeah I'd like to get a few tobacco cards and other prewar. I bought some 39 play ball ungraded but that was a dealer I trust and could see cards live. I'm not sure when I'll be able to go back to an actual card show.
-------------------------------
---------- Currently not trading but will consider buy/sell offers.
|
|
|
|
CluelessJoe
Posts: 401
Joined: Apr 2013
|
Wednesday, July 15, 2020 11:43 AM | |
I normally don't by graded cards and crack most that I do buy. An example of an exception is something that has a high likelyhood of being conterfiet. I have a 59 Fleer Ted Williams set minus #68. Due to all the conterfiets, I would only buy that one graded (if a can build my funds back up to afford one).
|
|
|
|