Frequently Asked Questions

  • What currency are the prices listed in?

    The prices are listed in $U.S. dollars.


  • How are prices on this site determined?

    All site prices are as submitted by members. If you click on a price, you can see a breakdown of the prices that were submitted to make up the displayed price. The site uses a median calculation to determine the totals that are displayed. If there isn't a median, then it takes an average.

    Prices are included on the site to give members a ballpark idea of how much certain cards are worth and do not represent a certified valuation.


  • The site says my collection is worth $____. Is it really worth that much?

    The total price for your collection is determined by adding the individual price of each card in your collection together.

    In reality, if you were to sell your collection in one bulk lot, it would more than likely not go for as much as the price indicated on the site as items sold in bulk usually come at a discount compared to items sold individually.


  • What are the guidelines for submitting pricing to the site?

    1. What constitutes a "Price"
      1. A price is:
        1. A price is the final sales price of a completed sale or auction of any individually sold card. **A user should ensure that they are looking at the completed sale of the exact card being priced. Sometimes cards can look identical to base cards in a picture or scan, but actually be parallels or variants that have vastly different prices (ie. Topps Tiffany, Foil Cards, Error cards, etc.)
        2. A price does not include postage that a buyer had to incur during the transaction. If a card has a sales price and shipping costs, the shipping cost can be entered into the shipping field.
        3. A price is verifiable. A user who inputs any price should be able to provide proof that the price is legitimate (and compliant with all pricing rules). Proof of a price can come in the form of:
          1. A link or details to a completed online sale/auction (enter link into URL field when submitting)
          2. A receipt from the purchase
          3. Historical reference or other research
          4. Another member who can validate as a witness to the sale
      2. A price is NOT:
        1. An asking price of a card that has not yet sold
        2. An estimate of what the user thinks/feels the card is worth
        3. An estimate of a card's price based on the sale of similar cards in that set
        4. An estimate of a card's price based on a trade or trade value
        5. A "book value" or "list value" or "price" from any price guide, online pricing site, or any other published and/or copyrighted source material **If it is already understood that prices should ONLY come from completed sales, this should NEVER even become an issue of discussion, discrepancy, or misunderstanding.
        6. A calculation of a sold card that is sold amongst other cards.
        7. A calculation of a sold card in a lot with multiples of the same card.
      3. Other Notes:
        1. Certain auction and card sale sites have a minimum allowed sales price so certain prices, especially for common cards, may not be indicative of actual value.
    2. How and when to include "Condition"
      1. If a card is graded, a user should list the "condition" of the card.
      2. For ungraded cards:
        1. Any cards that were personally sold or purchased, a user should list the "condition" of the card.
        2. Any cards that were sold in a third-party sale, a user should start with the lowest condition listed on the sold listing and verify the condition (to the best of their ability) based on the accompanying picture.
        3. Any cards that were sold in a third-party sale and have no listed condition, the user should do their best to estimate the condition of the card based on the picture provided in the listing.
        4. Any cards that were sold in a third-party sale and have no listed condition and the picture does not provide enough information to estimate a condition, the user should list the condition as N/A.
    3. How and when to include "Graded"
      1. If the sold card is enclosed in an official grading case and has been assigned a grade, the user should select "Y", otherwise select "N".
    4. How to include "Grader"
      1. If the user selected, "Y" for "Graded", they MUST list the grading agency here.
    5. How to include "Grade"
      1. If the user selected, "Y" for "Graded", they MUST list the assigned grade for the card here.
    6. How to include "Autographed"
      1. If the card was "officially" signed as part of the manufacturer's release, the card's "Note" field should indicate "AU" and any serialization ("SN") associated with the release. In this case, it is not necessary to duplicate the indication that the card is signed, so the user should select "N".
      2. If the card is "unofficially" signed after the release by the manufacturer by any person depicted on the card, the artist of the card, or someone otherwise associated with the image, the card (or production thereof), a user should list "Y"
      3. If the card is signed, or otherwise written on, by anyone who is not associated with the card, the user should select "N" and reduce the "condition" commensurate with "markings" on the card.
      4. If the card is not signed or marked by anyone, the user should select "N".
    7. How to include "Source"
      1. If the card was sold following the results of bidding, where multiple people had the opportunity to purchase the card in a series of increasing bids, or engaged in submitting a single undisclosed price they would be willing to pay ("silent bid") amongst others, and the card was sold to the highest bidder, the card should be listed as "Auction"
      2. In all other cases the card should be listed as "Retail".
    8. How to include “Date”
      1. The user should list the date that the card was sold, verified by the auction site listing the sale, or the receipt at the time of purchase. If the card was sold in person and there is no receipt, the user should list the most accurate date as possible of when the card was sold.


  • How do I submit the price for a card?

    For cards that already have pricing added, from the card's page under the image of the card, click on the price listed then use the "Click here to submit a price" link.

    For cards with no prices added yet, from the card's page under the image for the card, click on the "Submit a Price" link. Prices should be submitted in $U.S. dollars.

    Submitted prices go into a queue until the member has attained Price Processing permissons. Typical turnaround for prices in the queue is 24-72 hours depending on the current volume of submissions and if the proper references were included.

    Alternately, for cards in your collection, you can use the "Update Pricing" links when updating your collection to add prices.


  • Do I have to submit prices both at the card level and in my collection?

    Any pricing entered at the card level gets automatically applied to collections. Any prices entered at the collection level do not get overwitten when new prices are entered at the card level.


  • I found a price on the site that is not correct. What do I do?

    If you run across a price that you deem to be incorrect, click on the exclamation symbol next to the price to report it.

    If you make a typo and enter in an incorrect price, you have the ability to remove any price you have entered.

    Every member also has the ability to override the site's pricing when it comes to their own collection. When looking at a set in collection mode, if you click "Update Pricing" on the right, you can enter in your own pricing instead of using the site's prices.


  • I have an error card with one player on front and a different player's info on back. Is this rare and how much is it worth?

    These sorts of errors happen from time to time and are due to random misfires during the printing process.

    Due to their random nature, it's impossible to say how many others like it are out there. It could be a one-of-a-kind or a whole batch could have ended up in packs.

    These sorts of cards are considered "damaged goods" and don't carry any higher value than the accurate version of the card, unless you encounter someone who collects these sorts of oddities or a player or team collector who is interested in the subject on the card and wants it for the novelty.

    These types of error cards are not cataloged in the database.


  • Are there any other free sites where I can find out what my cards are worth?

 

  

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